The
unique measuring system of the USTER® AFIS counts every fiber, neps and trash
particle one by one. The fiber individualizer ensures single fiber measurement,
with a gentle opening of the test material. The USTER® AFIS is the standard
system for nep measurement, recognized worldwide, and used from cotton ginning
to yarn manufacturing. It measures various fiber characteristics such as fiber
length, maturity, trash, and nep content.
Measuring Principle
The measuring
principle of USTER AFIS is different from that of the USTER TESTER so
far as the USTER AFIS is an optical system. (Figure-1)
A fiber sample of
500 mg (making into a 30 cm thin sliver form) is inserted into the fiber
individualizer unit that separates the specimen into three main components:
- Lint: Fiber, short fibers, neps, seed coat neps.
- Trash & dust: Trash, dust, fiber fragments, very large seed coat with little or no attached fibers.
Figure 1: Measuring principle of AFIS |
Report Analysis:
Figure 2: An example of AFIS report |
AFIS Modules:
The USTER AFIS PRO comes with
different modules enabling a customized configuration for each plant.
i)
NC Module (Nep Classification)
-
Fiber
neps and seed coat neps
-
Count
and size distribution
Information obtained from NC Module:
Ranges of Neps and SCNs in raw cotton (Upland)
Effect of neps and
SCNs on subsequent textile processing are as follows:
· A higher number of
neps and SCN hampers the premium look/aesthetics of the fabric.
· A higher number
neps and SCN causes uneven dyeing and also responsible for dyeing shade
variation.
· White specs are
dye resistant neps on fabric which results undyed spots on fabric surface.
· Immature fiber
neps are highly responsible for shade variation in dyeing as they cannot absorb
dye properly because of their under developed cell wall.
· Biological neps
that is mainly generated during ginning results small dark specks in greige
fabric.
ii)
L & M Module (Length & Maturity)
-
Length
by weight and number
-
Short
fiber content
-
Maturity
ratio
-
Immature
fiber content
Information
obtained from L & M Module:
Length information
by number(n):
-
L(n):
The mean length by number is the average fiber length of all the cotton fibers
in the sample.
-
L(n)
CV%: The variation of fiber length around the average is expressed as length
variation by number or CV%
-
L(n)
5%: The 5% length by number is the length of the lobger 5% of all fibers in a
cotton sample.
- SFC (n): The short fiber content nu number s is the percent of all fibers in a cotton sample that are shorter than 0.5 inches or 12.7 mm.
Figure 3: Fiber length distribution (n) versus (w)
Length Information
by weight(w):
-
L
(w): The mean length of fiber by weight is the average fiber length of all the
cotton fibers in the sample.
-
L(w)
CV%: The variation of fiber length around the average is expressed as length
variation by weight or CV%
-
UQL(w):
UQL is equivalent to the Upper Quartile Length at the right end of the upper
quartile of the sample diagram. In other words, the upper quartile length by
weight is the length of the longer 25% of the all fibers in a cotton sample.
-
SFC(w):
The short fiber content by weight is the percent of all fibers in a cotton
sample that are shorter than 0.5 inches or 12.7 mm.
Different length groups of fiber:

Ranges of short
fiber content (n) and (w) in raw cotton (Upland):

Significance
of fiber length and effect of SFC on subsequent textile processing are as
follows:
· In general, a
longer average fiber length is preferred because it confers a number of
advantages:
1)
Firstly,
longer fibers are easier to process.
2)
Secondly,
more even yarns can be produced from them because there are less fiber ends in
a given length of yarn.
3)
Thirdly,
a higher strength of yarn can be produced from them for the same level of
twist.
4)
Length
is related to fiber characteristics such as strength, fineness, maturity and
evenness.
· Longer fibers are
generally stronger, finer and more uniform than shorter fibers.
· Increased yarn
strength results higher productivity in weaving and knitting.
· A higher value of
short fiber (SFC) is responsible for increased hairiness. Increased can create
higher chance of pill formation on fabric surface. Furthermore, increased
hairiness can create problems in dyeing and printing (reduces design sharpness
in printing).
· A higher value of
short fiber (SFC) can cause fly and dust generation in subsequent textile
processing.
· A higher value of
short fiber (SFC) can cause GSM variation in subsequent textile processing
(knitting, dyeing, finishing, etc.)
· A higher value of
short fiber (SFC) can reduce lustrous property of fabric which may result
additional fabric processing (i.e., singeing, sanforizing, etc.)
Maturity and
Fineness:
The AFIS measures maturity indirectly by measuring the fiber shape. Each time the fiber passes the optical sensors, two signals are detected two different angles by optical sensors.
![]() |
Figure 4: Two cotton varieties of different fineness and different stages of maturity |
Ranges of maturity, immature fiber content and fineness in raw cotton (short, medium & long staple):
· Highly mature
fiber provides even dye uptake% and results in minimization of shade variation. On
the other hand, a higher amount of immature fiber causes shade variations in
dyeing.
· Finer fiber
possesses a large number of processing benefits in textile manufacturing.
1)
Finer
fiber ensures a greater number of fibers in the cross-section, resulting the
basic irregularity is reduced.
2)
A
fine fiber can be spun finer than a coarse fiber measurement of fineness. In
other words, the finer the fiber, the higher the yarn count will be.
3)
As
fine fiber gives more uniform yarn, so it gives good quality fabric with
uniform properties and reduces the chance of getting faulty fabric.
4)
Finer
fiber ensures higher reflection of light and thus improves the fabric lustrous.
iii)
Trash Module
-
Dust
-
Trash
-
Total
foreign matter
ITMF definition of Dust and Trash particles:

Information obtained from T-Module:

The
T-module measures the amount and size of dust and trash particles in cotton
fibers. It helps to optimize process settings to minimize the adverse effects of
dust and trash particles. But the positive perspective is that most of the dust and
trash are eliminated from the yarn manufacturing stage at spinning mills.
Effects of Trash
and dust on subsequent textile processing are as follows:
· Presence of dust
and trash may cause visible quality problems in greige fabric.
· The presence of dust
and trash may cause dark and light spots on dyed fabric.
· The presence of dust and trash may cause faded shade in dyed fabric.
References
- uTESTER6 The Total Testing Center™. (n.d.). Technical data.
- Uddin, A. J. (n.d.). Process control of spinning: Part B.
- Imtiaz, S. (n.d.). Yarn unevenness and its impact on quality.
- Booth, J. E. (n.d.). Principles of textile testing.
- Nishi, S. I. (n.d.). Fiber and yarn testing: Part A.
Comments
Post a Comment